Circles

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Well here it is, my attempt at circles. Remember when I mentioned DH saying my Parallelograms Cloth should be named "slanted diamonds"? Well, I showed him the pictures of this Circles Cloth, and the first thing that came out of his mouth is, "flowers?" He's too funny...

I hesitate to consider this part of my series of Geometric Lace Cloths because this one requires a bit more needle acrobatics than the others. It's not limited to simple YO, K2Tog, and SSK. Perhaps when I have a little more time, I will come up with a proper simple version of circles. I do have to say that I like this design because they actually look round. :-)

Knitting this cloth was much easier than transcribing it into this blog while trying to make it easy to follow. It's actually much easier than the instructions look (I can already hear V saying, "nothing is ever simple with you...") and actually goes pretty quick once you get into the rhythm of it...

I don't remember what color yarn this is, but I'm thinking it might be tea rose...



Stitches used in this cloth include:
Garter Stitch, BW1 pg 10
Grand Gothic Border, BW3 pg 168
Stockinette Stitch, BW1 pg 10

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Circles
© Designed by S.M. Kahn, Jan 2007
Smariek Knits -=<>=- http://smariek.blogspot.com

Please read "Notes" section at the bottom before starting.

Using WW kitchen cotton and US7 (4.5mm) needles, cast on 37 stitches.

Knit 4 rows.

Row 1 and all other wrong side rows: B3, P31, B3
Row 2 (RS): B3, K14, Cluster 3, K14, B3
Row 4: B3, K12, K3Tog, YO, M2, YO, K3Tog-b, K12, B3
Row 6: B3, K11, (K2Tog, YO)x2, K1-b, (YO, SSK)x2, K11, B3
Row 8: B3, K12, YO, K2Tog, YO, SK2TP, YO, SSK, YO, K12, B3
Row 10: B3, K4, Cluster 3, K4, (SSK, YO)x2, K1-b, (YO, K2Tog)x2, K4, Cluster 3, K4, B3.
Row 12: B3, K2, K3Tog, YO, M2, YO, K3Tog-b, K3, M1, YO, D4, YO, M1, K3, K3Tog, YO, M2, YO, K3Tog-b, K2, B3
Row 14: B3, K1, (K2Tog, YO)x2, K1-b, (YO, SSK)x2, K4, Cluster 3, K4, (K2Tog, YO)x2, K1-b, (YO, SSK)x2, K1, B3
Row 16: B3, K2, YO, K2Tog, YO, SK2TP, YO, SSK, YO, K13, YO, K2Tog, YO, SK2TP, YO, SSK, YO, K2, B3
Row 18: B3, K1, (SSK, YO)x2, K1-b, (YO, K2Tog)x2, K4, Cluster 3, K4, (SSK,YO)x2, K1-b, (YO, K2Tog)x2, K1, B3
Row 20: B3, K2, M1, YO, D4, YO, M1, K3, K3Tog, YO, M2, YO, K3Tog-b, K3, M1, YO, D4, YO, M1, K2, B3
Row 22: B3, K4, Cluster 3, K4, (K2Tog, YO)x2, K1-b, (YO, SSK)x2, K4, Cluster 3, K4, B3
Row 24: B3, K12, YO, K2Tog, YO, SK2TP, YO, SSK, YO, K12, B3
Row 26: B3, K4, Cluster 3, K4, (SSK, YO)x2, K1-b, (YO, K2Tog)x2, K4, Cluster 3, K4, B3
Row 28: B3, K2, K3Tog, YO, M2, YO, K3Tog-b, K3, M1, YO, D4, YO, M1, K3, K3Tog, YO, M2, YO, K3Tog-b, K2, B3
Row 30: B3, K1, (K2Tog, YO)x2, K1-b, (YO, SSK)x2, K4, Cluster 3, K4, (K2Tog, YO)x2, K1-b, (YO, SSK)x2, K1, B3
Row 32: B3, K2, YO, K2Tog, YO, SK2TP, YO, SSK, YO, K13, YO, K2Tog, YO, SK2TP, YO, SSK, YO, K2, B3
Row 34: B3, K1, (SSK, YO)x2, K1-b, (YO, K2Tog)x2, K4, Cluster 3, K4, (SSK, YO)x2, K1-b, (YO, K2Tog)x2, K1, B3
Row 36: B3, K2, M1, YO, D4, YO, M1, K3, K3Tog, YO, M2, YO, K3Tog-b, K3, M1, YO, D4, YO, M1, K2, B3
Row 38: B3, K4, Cluster 3, K4, (K2Tog, YO)x2, K1-b, (YO, SSK)x2, K4, Cluster 3, K4, B3
Row 40: B3, K12, YO, K2Tog, YO, SK2TP, YO, SSK, YO, K12, B3
Row 42: B3, K11, (SSK, YO)x2, K1-b, (YO, K2Tog)x2, K11, B3
Row 44: B3, K12, M1, YO, D4, YO, M1, K12, B3
Row 46: B3, K14, Cluster 3, K14, B3
Row 47: B3, P31, B3

Knit 4 Rows.
Bind off. Weave in ends. Block.






Notes:

B3 = 3 stitch border of your choice (I used K3 for my border in the cloth above)

Cluster 3 = Slip 3 stitches to right needle with yarn in back. Pass yarn to the front. Slip the same 3 stitches from right needle to left needle. Pass yarn to the back. Knit 3.

D4 (Quadruple decrease: taking 5 stitches & reducing it down to 1 stitch) is done as follows:
1. Slip 3 stitches to the right needle.
2. Pass the 2nd stitch on the right needle over the 1st (center) stitch.
3. Slip the center stitch back to the left needle.
4. Pass the 2nd stitch on the left needle over the 1st (center) stitch.
5. Slip the center stitch back to the right needle.
6. Pass the 2nd stitch on the right needle over the 1st (center) stitch.
7. Slip the center stitch back to the left needle.
8. Pass the 2nd stitch on the left needle over the 1st (center) stitch.
9. Knit the center stitch.

K1-b = Insert needle into the back loop of the stitch and knit it.

K2TOG = Knit 2 stitches together

K3Tog = Knit 3 stitches together (same as K2Tog, except worked on 3 stitches instead of 2)

K3Tog-b = Knit 3 stitches together through the back loop. (This is similar to k tbl, except it is worked over 3 stitches instead of 1 stitch. You can look at the video for k tbl for an example of how it is done)

M1 (Increase 1 stitch: taking 1 stitch to create 1 more stitch, resulting in 2 stitches total) is done as follows:
1. Knit into the back of the stitch in the row below the 1st stitch on the left needle.
2. knit into the front of the 1st stitch on the left needle.

M2 (Double increase: taking 1 stitch to create 2 more stitches, resulting in 3 stitches total) = K1-b (leaving stitch on the left needle), then K1 into front of the same stitch. Now insert your left needle point behind the vertical strand that runs downwards from between the 2 stitches just made, and K1-b into this strand to make the 3rd stitch of the group.

SSK = slip 1 stitch, slip 1 stitch, knit these two slipped stitches together

SK2TP = Slip 1 stitch, knit 2 stitches together, pass the slipped stitch over. (I think this is more commonly known as SK2P. I need that extra "T" as a visual reminder to myself that I'm knitting 2 stitches together. It's one of my beginner knitter quirks. You can see a video for how to do SK2P on this site here.)

YO = yarn over

Instructions in parentheses followed by x2 means you do what is in the paretheses the number of times indicated after "x". For example, (K2Tog, YO)x2 means you would do K2Tog, YO, K2Tog, YO.


Tips:

When doing Cluster 3, give the yarn a good tug before knitting the 3 stitches.

D4 sounds confusing in words. You're taking the next 5 stitches on your left needle and reducing it down to 1 stitch. Let's number them from left to right as 1, 2, 3, 4, 5. So this means that #5 is on the far right nearest the tip of your left needle, and #1 is on the far left furthest from the tip of your left needle. What you are going to do is slip #3, #4, & #5 to your right needle. Then pass #4 over #3. Slip #3 back to your left needle. Pass #2 over #3. Slip #3 back to your right needle. Pass #5 over #3. Slip #3 back to your left needle. Pass #1 over #3. You're left with stitch #3 which you just knit. I hope this sounds clearer?

When doing D4, make sure you haven't "lost" your previous YO before you knit the center stitch.



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